Sport Climbing in Mallorca

Marius Dorin Balate | Dreamstime.com

Sport Climbing in Mallorca

Sport Climbing in Mallorca

Sport Climbing in Mallorca

Sun, sea, sangria: this is what the majority of people think of when they hear the word "Mallorca". But the largest of the Balearic Islands still has much more to offer than the three "s" words. With a very diverse landscape and excellent infrastructure, Mallorca is also a paradise for climbers.

Shell limestone and tuff rocks offer climbing routes of all levels of difficulty - and magnificent view when you have reached the top.

Basically, Mallorca is great to explore as a climbing destination throughout the year, but we would recommend May to November, when there is less precipitation and the rocks remain dry. However, climbing in the autumn and winter months from September also has some advantages: The island is generally less crowded, travel and accommodation are cheaper than in high season and the temperatures are moderate.

In addition to the enormous variety of difficulty levels and types of rocks, Mallorca also boasts an excellent road network. A rental car is highly recommended: if you hit the base camp near the capital Palma, you can easily access all the climbing spots in one hour at most. In addition, there are numerous cheap flights to Mallorca from most major UK cities. Climbing destinations in Mallorca are therefore generally easy to reach.

North of Palma: Sa Gubia

The largest climbing area on the island is the notably alpine, Sa Gubia, north of Palma which nestles in the first foothills of the Serra de Tramuntana. There are more than 100 routes for the passionate climber to choose from, most of them having difficulty levels 6a-6c. You may have to tackle rock faces of up to 200 metres, which can offer a variety of challenges: in Sa Gubia you can spend a lot of time and enjoy yourself. Those who enjoy multi-pitch routes will most definitely not be disappointed.

Rock and sea on the west coast: Serra de Tramuntana

The Serra de Tramuntana mountain range stretches along the west coast of Mallorca like the backbone of the island - and offers some wonderfully beautiful climbing spots. At the limestone cliffs near Valldemossa, for example, you can climb heights of up to 45 metres directly above the sea. The routes are varied and are between difficulty levels 4-7c. One particular advantage here is that due to the rock overhang here, you can still climb and stay dry even in light rain.

Mount Alarò has wall heights of up to 25 metres and numerous tufa ledges. Most routes are in the range 5+ to 7c +. The location of the climbing wall at the foot of the castle ruins of Castell d'Alarò gives this spot a special charm. A great incentive as well as an insider tip is that the restaurants at the top serve the traditional grilled lamb shoulder - one of Mallorca's classic dishes - the perfect refreshment after a climb!

Diversity in the north: Formentor and surroundings

Even the north of the island offers worthwhile climbing routes, although not everything is accessible on the long Formentor peninsula. One of the most beautiful panoramas is clearly located near Creveta, near Port de Pollença, which is particularly easy to access. The numerous routes are mostly in the difficulty levels 4-6c and are suitable for beginners. Due to the enormous variety of rocks and high grip holds Creveta remains pleasantly challenging.

Climbing with a dream view: Tips on the East Coast

Porto Cristo in the north-eastern part of the island is known for its caves, but the Cova del Diablo should also be known to every climber. This is a deep-water solo climb par excellence for those interested in what Mallorcans call "psicobloc" - psycho-bouldering.

Also the dry valley of Cala Magraner offers climbers a breath-taking atmosphere. A mixture of limestone and tufa provides varied routes between 4 and 7a directly above the sea.

If you want to know more about climbing in Mallorca, here is an overview of climbing routes and maps for Mallorca.

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