Abbaco Natural Food & Sushi

What comes together in the kitchen at Abbaco Natural Food & Sushi

The menu opens with things to share: Lebanese hummus with pita, a trio of vegetarian dips of tzatziki, muhammara and beetroot hummus, crisp chicken and vegetable gyoza in a sweet-and-sour sauce of orange and tamarind, house-made dumplings with octopus and prawn. Then comes a section given over entirely to salads and vegetables — black quinoa with avocado and chickpeas, pumpkin with orange, almonds and asparagus, a summer salad of mango, feta and dried tomato.

The rice dishes can be ordered dry or creamy, with Iberian pork pluma and black truffle, with octopus, clams and cuttlefish, or in a version with sea bass, spinach and pine nuts. The same section holds a Pad Thai made with wheat noodles rather than rice noodles — one of the points where the menu deliberately departs from the template.

Over the fire it turns more Mediterranean: sea bass and salmon off the embers, cod with miso and an edamame cream, beef fillet with pickled mushrooms, a lamb terrine, beef cheek under a blanket of wonton. Alongside comes patató, the small Mallorcan potato, which turns up on several plates.

Sushi, ceviche and the raw bar

The Japanese and the Peruvian sides share one section, which makes sense, because they met long ago in Nikkei cooking. There is sashimi of sea bass, salmon and tuna, and nigiri with salmon and its roe, with eel sauce, or — for vegetarians — with pickled cucumber. From the Peruvian side come a corvina ceviche with red onion, corn and sweet potato, an octopus tiradito with passion-fruit leche de tigre, and a tuna tartare on a shiso leaf.

The rolls carry their own names and are where the house experiments most. The Shibashi joins flamed sea bass with teriyaki, black garlic and dried yuzu; the Fuji works with tomato cream cheese, horseradish and umeboshi; the Acevichado brings leche de tigre into the roll; and the Fresh Summer Roll pairs tuna with shiso, strawberry and lime. If you would rather not commit, order a half roll — the menu makes a point of offering them.

Desserts, coffee and the wine side

To finish there is a classic torrija with hazelnut ice cream, crunchy pistachio and pear discs, cheesecake with caramelised almonds, a coulant with hazelnut praline and a pineapple carpaccio with coconut ice cream. The ice cream comes from the in-house corner Ca na Mina, where homemade ice creams are made from natural, local ingredients.

The coffee page is fuller than usual in houses of this size — from the shakerato through the espresso martini to the affogato with their own vanilla ice cream. The wine list fills two full pages, and among the sweet wines Hungarian Tokaji stands beside an Asturian ice cider, which is a rare pairing on this coast.

Who Abbaco suits

Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes are not carried here as a footnote but marked across the whole menu; the vegetable section is one of the largest in the house. There is a small separate menu for children. Booking runs through the house's own system, which on this promenade in high season is a sensible idea.