A GoGò Pizzabar

A GoGò Pizzabar sits on Carrer de Can Fortuny, a narrow lane right beside Plaça de Santa Eulàlia, in the middle of medieval Palma. It is the second and larger house of Camilla Riccardi and Jerónimo Alonso: the bar and the open kitchen on the ground floor, a quieter room one flight up to settle into, and in front of it a very small terrace. The decoration is restrained, the tone familiar, and the owners are on the floor themselves. Well-behaved dogs are expressly welcome. Their first place, a tiny pizzabar with an open counter where you can watch the pizzaiolo work, has been running in Sa Gerreria since 2019. The name, incidentally, has nothing to do with dancing girls, as people often assume: "a gogò" means something like "in abundance" in Italian. The dough and the pizzas at A GoGò Pizzabar The pizza follows the Roman scrocchiarella rather than the Neapolitan model: round, stretched thin, with a low rim, golden and lightly crisp. The dough has four ingredients — high-protein Italian flour, water, salt and fresh yeast. After the first rise the kitchen shapes individual dough balls, the "panetti", and lets them mature for a good day; that is what makes the base easier to digest. The stretching is done by hand. The tomatoes come as Rosso Gargano from Apulia and La Torrente from Campania, the fiordilatte mozzarella fresh from Italy every week. The menu separates classic pizzas from the "pizze della casa", with changing creations of the month and of the season alongside them. The house toppings include the Umbra without tomato, with woodland mushrooms tossed in white wine, burrata and white truffle; the Ghiottona with pistachio mortadella and black truffle; the Acciurrata, whose burrata and anchovies go on only after the oven, which is why it is served at room temperature; and the Sa Roqueta, dedicated to Mallorca: spicy sobrasada, Burrata di Andria and a thread of honey. Then the classics, from the Margherita to the Romana with Santoña anchovies. Roman antipasti and Sicilian snacks At the heart of the kitchen are the supplì, Roman fried rice balls with a core of melted mozzarella: the classic one with a ragù of Mallorcan meat — black pork, yearling beef and chicken — one in the cacio e pepe style, and a vegan one with lentil ragù. Beside them stand Sicilian cazzilli, potato croquettes with mint made without breadcrumbs and without egg, courgette flowers in tempura batter with ricotta and smoked provola, and the Tuscan gnudi of spinach and ricotta in butter and sage. The dolci are homemade: a lemon tart under a meringue cap, panna cotta with amaretti crumbs, and a small cannolo with sweet ricotta, dark chocolate and pistachio. Vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free The vegan menu here is not an appendix but a section of its own. Camilla Riccardi developed the recipes for the plant-based cheeses herself: mozzarella and burrata come from fermented Mallorcan almonds, the Parmesan substitute from lupins, the scamorza from rice, and even the spicy sobrasada is rebuilt from dried tomatoes. If you want, you can buy these cheeses by weight. Then there is a vegan Sa Roqueta, a pizza with vegan mortadella and pistachio, and a vegan burratina on rocket. A gluten-free base can be ordered, though the house's own menu states it is not suitable for coeliacs. What the house does for the environment Sustainability at A GoGò is not a slogan but a published list of measures. Wherever the Italian quality allows it, buying is local and seasonal, the cleaning products are ECOLABEL certified, and single-use plastic is pushed back. Out of the ambition to throw nothing away come oils and creams made from trimmings; the takeaway packaging is compostable. Used frying oil goes to a recycling project that turns it into biofuel, and the proceeds go to an organisation working to protect the Mediterranean. An animal welfare association from Llucmajor is supported as well. And if you bring your own container, you pay less for takeaway.